This tutorial will cover the basics regarding the software that controls the fuel part of the Bazzaz products. We will not be covering the traction control or quickshifter as it's much easier then the fuel part and if you're running those you should know how to just change the settings to your personal preferences. Also all Bazzaz products are designed for race use only. This write up is not meant to take place of the Bazzaz instructions but be for information purposes only and not a precise how-to


First lets cover what this unit does and does not do. This unit will measure your fuels air to fuel ratio by using the sensor you installed in your exhaust. This is the same thing they do on a dyno when you get your bike tuned. What is nice about this is that you're gathering data AS you ride the bike so you're getting realistic ram air readings, realistic outdoor temperatures, etc. The bazzaz unit will store all the data the sensor gathers. With this data the unit then does lots of math for you and will then show you your average air to fuel ratio's at any given rpm and throttle %. It will then take that data and give you suggested changes to your map in order to meet the target air to fuel ratio that you plugged into the program. It will not automatically make the changes as they want the human element involved just in case there are any anamolies, etc.

The Bazzaz unit will log for hours so you can get a very good average between all the gears of the air to fuel ratio, you get realistic readings while riding and not just sitting on a dyno. The best part is that you can remap your bike easily for different changes in air temperature, modifications, etc. No need to keep paying for expensive dyno time.

There is a delay by the time the sensor reads the exhaust gasses and the rpm/throttle position that gave it that data. IE you can be at 5,000 rpm at 50% throttle, but the sensor could still be reading the exhaust gasses from 4,950rpm's at 50% throttle as it takes time for those gasses to reach the sensor. The bazzaz unit has taken this into account and is all built into the unit. This is a non issue with the Bazzaz.

One other thing to note is that the ZAFM self mapping kit is universal so if you and your friends buy just the ZFI kit only one person needs the ZAFM and you can move it from bike to bike to map them all. Or if you own multiple bikes you only need one ZAFM kit as it will do all the logging and give suggestions for map changes, then the ZFI saves the map and will keep your current map going. The ZAFM kit is what does all the logging and suggestions in changing the map. You could very easily buy just the ZFI unit and go to a dyno and have them build you a map, but for nearly the same price you can have the ZAFM addition and do your own tuning.


When you open the software the first thing you will notice is it trying to communicate with the Bazzaz unit on the bike. You will need the Bazzaz software installed on your computer (it comes on the cd with the products). You then need to have your bike on, it doesn't have to be running, but the key must be turned on. Then plug the usb cable that came with the Bazzaz unit into the Bazzaz box (a little black tab covers where you plug the usb cord into) then plug it into your computer as well. Once the bike is on and the cable is connecting the Bazzaz box to the laptop you should open the Bazzaz ZFI-Mapper and you'll see it connect to your Bazzaz unit. The screen below will pop up but you will have no green boxes in it like we have.

In the lower left you can see where it says Map 1. this is because it will hold two maps and we have the switch that we installed where we can switch between them both. If we hit that switch then the software instantly changes to map 2. During all of this we are staying on Map 1 though.

In the above image you will see the target Air to Fuel Ratio. It comes preset with 13.0 as this is a good baseline that most people go with as it's found to give good horsepower and still be safe on the engine. This is the air to fuel ratio that all map suggested alterations will be trying to reach. So if you're say 13.7 in one area it will add fuel to try and reach the target of 13.0. Again , the unit does all of the work for you so there is less guess work on your part. The image above shows our bike idling right after we started it up. As we blipped the throttle a bit it started giving suggestions already as you can see. The gap you see at the 10,000 and 10,500 rpm range is left blank as it's either tuned well there or it didn't get enough valid data to give suggestions. If you move through the rpm range too fast or a variety of other things it will not take that area into consideration as it didn't get enough valid data. It only gives suggestions and reads the air to the fuel ratio in area's where it considers the data valid.


You can click on the above image to open a larger window and see what we are talking about. Notice at the top that we are at the self mapping part of the software. We covered the target air to fuel ratio and now lets cover the rest. First you see the start and stop tabs. When you hit start it starts the logging, you then can play with the throttle while the bike sits there or you can close the software, disconnect the usb cord and then start riding and it will log. You can also turn your bike off, restart it days later and start riding again, then it off again, then go out riding a month later and it will keep logging until you turn it off. It will hold about 3 hours worth of logging. When you're ready to adjust the map then with the bike powered on plug the usb cord back into your Bazzaz unit and then into the laptop and open their software. You then want to hit the stop button to stop the logging. Next you hit the retrieve button to retrieve all of the data.


This is what it looks like after you retrieve the data. You can see where a lot of info was gathered and suggested settings were made. If you want to make all of the changes to your map you just hit "apply all" and only hit it once. If you try and hit it again it will warn you that you're making it again. You can see on the left the throttle % you were at while at that "cell" and you can then look down and see what rpm you were at as well. If you do retrieve your data and alter your map or not it is best to clear the logging from the Bazzaz unit so that next time you go out to log it's starting with fresh data. Remember that it averages everything so when you start fresh it will start the logging with the new map and you get a fresh start of logging with your newly refined map. Now look at the button that says "show afr" which will show you the air to fuel ratio's for the cells it got good data at. This button lets you toggle between showing the afr and showing the fuel % suggested changes. Lets hit the button and see the air to fuel ratio's for this run.


Here you can see the air to fuel ratio's and if you look at the top around 8,000rpm at 100% throttle you will see we are rich in that area. If you then look at the image in the above section you will see that's where it recommend a -11 and -10% change to the fuel map. Makes sense. Everywhere it says 10.9 is basically invalid data. You want to concentrate on the green cell's. A 10.9 is shown instead of a 0 anywhere there is no valid data.


So to recap. To go out and make a run, gather data, then alter your map and then clear it all to start fresh you will take the following steps.

1. have the bike powered on.
2. hook up the usb cord
3. open the ZFI-Mapper software
4. click on the self mapping tab at the top
5. hit start in the logging
6. exit the software and disconnect the cable
7. ride around in as many situations as possible
8. come back with the bike powered on and hook up the usb cord
9. open the ZFI-Mapper software and go to the self mapping section at the top
10. hit "stop" to stop the logging (1st click)
11. hit retrive to download the data into the software (2nd click)
12. hit apply all if you agree with the suggestions (3rd click)
13. hit "clear" to clear the data and start fresh with your new map (4th click) and DONE!
14. hit start if you want to repeat the process.


Now one thing to note is that the first time or two you go out you don't have a very good map so doing a pull in 2nd/3rd gear a few times at different throttle positions is a good idea then go in and apply the suggested changes if you agree with them all. This way you're starting to get a map going before you go out riding for hours and hours. Best to start small and then work your way up to logging for an hour or two then looking at the data. Going out for 2 hours to log before you have a half way set up map is NOT recommended. Keep it short at first and build your way up.


This is what you will see if you click the fuel map in the upper left. This is your current map that your bike is running on. This one shows our 2007 GSXR 1000 with full Akrapovic exhaust and it's pretty well tuned at this point. Only a few cells are not plugged in, but for the most part after going out for 3 short sessions we have it pretty well filled in. We normally have all of the gears at the bottom at 0%. We changed 1st gear to 1% just to show you that you can add fuel or subtract fuel based on the gear you're currently in. You can also save your map to your computer just in case you need it for future use. For instance you may have different maps for different temperatures outside. For instance a map for 50 degrees verse 110 degrees is what many will use it for. Or having different maps for different tracks based on altitude, riding conditions, etc. The above picture shows map0 as the bike is currently not plugged in for this screen shot. We just opened it up on our computer as we have the map saved on our computer.


To date every single change we have made is from the suggested changes as they are all right on. We also look at the air to fuel ratio's and then and then at the recommended changes before we change them. We are looking for anything that doesn't make sense, etc. So far when it's rich it wants to take away fuel and when lean wants to add it and it all makes perfect sense. Also your bike will never run perfectly to where it's 13.0 at EVERY single cell. You have to remember that no sensor is 100% dead on and there are other factors. Once you get the software to where it's making 2-4% changes nearly everywhere it will be good to go. It will never not have any suggested changes. Remember that it averages the gears and everything else. So if you ride around in 1st through 3rd gear and then want to change the map it will be different then if you get going and maintain 3-6th gears most of the time. The changes will be minimal, but there will be changes. So it's never perfect in any gear you're thinking? That is correct. It averages it so the best thing to do is ride around in all different situations then make your changes, or if you're on a track gather data during practice then apply it for the race so you're perfect for those riding conditions. Remember though...on a dyno you only get a few runs and in select gears and then it's tuned. With this you get to tune it for a specific track, or average it out after a long street ride to get a good average of all types of conditions.

For now we have not one negative thing to say about this software as it makes tuning very easy and gets the job done flawlessly!